Walking along the beach,
a lone surfer prepares for
his battle with the Atlantic ocean.
Waves, thick and heavy from
bitter cold and climate change.
A rush of momentary fear and oxygen
courses densely through his veins as he
paddles out to the 9 foot walls swelling
with tremendous energy and power and
crashing overhead, the surfer searches for
solace in the silence beneath the wave.
Blasts of slushy water numb his face,
rejoicing at the crispness of outside air
reminding him how it feels to be alive
in the moment, patiently positioning himself
to catch that one, perfect wave.
His body numb from freezing salt water
seeping into his wetsuit sends shivers
forcing every ounce of energy to the forefront
as the zenith of his performance comes with
thick, frothy wave charging behind him.
He drops in to the face of the mountain of water
chasing him through the thumping tube,
pumping through the barrel, gaining speed for his exit,
he shoots through the gap and coasts to shore.
Never looking back, always forward with smile wide,
heart full, body drained and temporary enlightenment, he ponders
“it was another successful surf session,”
as he drives off toward the
setting summer sun.